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Brewskeez Falls More on the Bar Side Than Restaurant Side

It looks like a fun place on the weekends, but Brewskeez left our restaurant reviewer less than impressed.

is a surprisingly large sports bar tucked into a strip mall on Lindbergh, just behind rows of fast food. It's easy to miss past the and that front the main road. 

There was a light crowd at lunch, people drinking their meals while collected around the bar. The smell of smoke sent me back a couple steps, but if you're looking for a place where you can still smoke in peace, this is it. 

I ordered my usual iced tea while I looked at the menu. When the bartender brought it to me, I realized I was the only person not having an alcoholic beverage.

The good news was that the restaurant brews its tea. The bad news is this was the most bitter glass I'd ever been offered in my life. I have no idea how long it was sitting after being brewed.  

At lunch, the bar was the only part of Brewskeez offering service. When you walk in, the room is divided into three large sections. The first thing you see is the massive, wooden wrap around bar. To the right is a small, intimate dining area with an ATM, jukebox, dartboards and a cigarette machine. To the right is an expansive dining area lined by five massive televisions with sporting trophies on top. The room ends in a stage piled high with speakers.

A poster on the front door advertised the "world famous" Dr. Zhivigas every Tuesday. Based on the band photo, this is Florissant’s home for '80s hair metal.

At the time, the TVs were turned down to a pleasant background hum. It was just loud enough that I didn’t feel like I was in a library without being so loud it drowned out conversation. The three pretty girls working the bar were friendly and attentive, even to me.

I wouldn't recommend stopping in for lunch, and honestly, I'm a little dubious about dinner. However, this looks like the kind of bar that would be a lot of fun on a weekend.

My bar side vantage gave me a good view of the drinks. Brewskeez has a good selection of Pinnacle party shots—cotton candy, cherry vanilla and chocolate-whipped cream-flavored vodkas, alongside a bunch of flavors of Pucker. Guys, they’re well stocked for girl drinks. That says something about the clientele.

I was impressed with the menu’s selection of appetizers that didn’t come from a deep fryer. Stuffed mushrooms with garlic, spices and provel, freshly made chicken quesidillas, mozzarella-stuffed breadsticks, and my choice, the steak kabobs.

On the vaguely healthy side, the restaurant offers half a dozen salads (all topped with ample cheese, meat and dressing) plus the same basic ingredients stuffed into a wrap for easier eating. The full page of sandwich selections includes several burgers, a Philly cheesesteak, a pork tenderloin, tuna melt and a few chicken sandwiches. Brewskeez also offers basic pizzas (sausage, pepperoni) and hot wings.

My steak kabobs were a real surprise. The cubes of meat may have been well done instead of medium rare, but they had the texture of steak with the flavor of an excellent, chargrilled burger.

The combination of the marinade and the time spent on an actual grill gave it a great hearty burger flavor with a real soy sauce-based earthiness, artificial smoke flavor and hint of sweetness. The steak kabob isn’t a cheap appetizer, but it is a good one.

After that, the burger I ordered was a real disappointment. The meat was almost painfully dry and burnt on both sides. Where was that hearty burger flavor I enjoyed on the kabobs?  

This was a bland, burnt, unseasoned piece of sad meat. The nicely toasted bun was dense enough to stand up to some moisture. I cut it in half and tried a bite of the middle, so I could get a little bit of flavor in my mouth other than the black, burnt edges. It was burned all the way through.

It's never a good sign when you're at a sit-down restaurant and think about going to Steak 'n Shake to get a real burger when you’re done.

Side items included my choice of fries, onion rings and tater tots. I freely admit, if I'm going to indulge in kid food, I love tater tots. These were perfectly golden brown, wonderfully light and crispy, and fully drained, so there wasn't any greasiness.

They were the platonic ideal of tater tots. If you want to make a meal out of them, you can get them loaded. Unlike tortilla chips or fries, these are crunchy enough to hold up to plenty of toppings before getting soggy. They make great bar food. Sadly, they made me even more frustrated with the horrible burger.

If you want to eat out somewhere you can still smoke, well, avoid the burgers, and you're likely to be OK. Brewskeez doesn’t serve great food, but looking around, despite the size of the dining room and the length of the menu, this is clearly meant to be more of a bar than a restaurant.

The total came to $19.67 plus a $2.50 tip for my horrible tea, burnt burger, tater tots and surprisingly decent steak kabob appetizer. I found it seriously overpriced for what the restaurant delivered. Presumably, smokers are willing to pay a premium in order to enjoy their habit indoors.

I'm sure this is a whole different place on weekend nights when the bar is hopping. However, as a restaurant, I give it a C. If you visit on a weekend, have dinner before you go out and stick with the appetizer menu and the fried foods to help buffer your drinks.

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